:root{--paper:#f4efe6;--ink:#28382f;--clay:#87432f;--muted:#5b6259;--line:#c6c5b5;--forest:#233e34;--soft:#e9e5d8;--serif:'Prata',Georgia,serif;--sans:'DM Sans',sans-serif}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:95px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:16px;line-height:1.65}::selection{background:#d5b59a;color:#1e3027}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:5px}a:hover{color:var(--clay)}button,a,summary{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--clay);outline-offset:5px}button{font:inherit}img{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}figure{margin:0}figcaption{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:10px}p{margin:0 0 1.2em;max-width:69ch}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;line-height:1.15;letter-spacing:-.035em;margin:0;text-wrap:balance}h2{font-size:clamp(32px,4vw,54px)}h3{font-size:clamp(30px,3vw,43px)}em{font-style:normal;color:var(--clay)}.skip{position:fixed;left:16px;top:-90px;background:var(--paper);padding:15px;z-index:10}.skip:focus{top:10px}.masthead{height:94px;padding:0 4.3%;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.wordmark{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:23px;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.masthead nav{display:flex;gap:27px;font-size:13px}.masthead nav a{text-decoration:none}.masthead nav a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.edition{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:42% 58%;min-height:660px;margin:0 4.3%;padding-top:38px;padding-bottom:48px}.hero-copy{padding:28px 20px 0 0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(48px,5.9vw,84px);line-height:1.09;letter-spacing:-.04em;margin-bottom:27px}.hero h1 em{font-size:.81em;white-space:nowrap}.hero-copy>p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.7;margin-bottom:24px}.text-link{text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding-bottom:7px;font-size:14px;display:inline-flex;gap:35px;align-items:center}.hero-foot{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:auto;padding-top:40px}.hero-image{position:relative;min-height:570px;margin-bottom:24px}.hero-image>img{position:absolute;inset:0;object-position:55% 50%;animation:opening 1.5s cubic-bezier(.16,1,.3,1)}.hero-image>figcaption{position:absolute;top:100%;right:0}.image-note{position:absolute;bottom:32px;left:-34px;background:var(--paper);padding:23px 30px 18px;transform:rotate(-3deg);box-shadow:0 8px 24px #28382f18}.image-note>span{font-size:11px;display:block;margin-bottom:10px}.image-note p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:23px;line-height:1.45;margin:0}.intro{margin:25px 10% 100px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:8%;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:45px}.intro-lead{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:31px;line-height:1.45}.intro>div{font-size:16px;color:var(--muted)}.section-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:35px;margin-bottom:55px}.section-heading>p{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);max-width:38ch;margin:0}.places{padding:0 7%}.place{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.05fr 1fr;gap:8%;align-items:center;margin:0 0 115px}.place figure{height:610px;margin-bottom:26px}.place-city img{object-position:50% 50%}.place-mountain{grid-template-columns:1fr 1.05fr}.place-mountain figure{height:570px}.place-oasis figure{height:560px}.place-copy>p{margin:25px 0;color:var(--muted)}.experience-list{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:30px 0}.experience-list li{padding:14px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.experience-list strong{display:block;font-weight:500;font-size:16px}.experience-list span{display:block;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.6;margin-top:4px}details{border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:14px}summary{padding:15px 25px 15px 0;cursor:pointer;position:relative;list-style:none;font-weight:500}summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}summary:after{content:'+';position:absolute;right:2px;font-weight:400;font-size:21px;top:9px}details[open]>summary:after{content:'−'}details>p{color:var(--muted);margin-top:8px}details>a{display:inline-block;margin-bottom:16px}.quiet{padding:75px 7% 85px;background:var(--soft)}.quiet-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;column-gap:8%;row-gap:44px}.quiet-grid article{border-top:1px solid #b6b9a9;padding-top:22px}.location{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);display:block;margin-bottom:13px}.quiet-grid h3{font-size:30px;margin-bottom:16px}.quiet-grid p{font-size:15px;max-width:55ch}.quiet-grid details{margin-top:20px}.stays{padding:100px 7%;display:grid;grid-template-columns:.82fr 1.3fr;gap:10%;background:var(--forest);color:var(--paper)}.stays em{color:#e5b696}.stay-intro{position:sticky;top:45px;align-self:start}.stay-intro>p{margin-top:28px;color:#d6ded4;max-width:34ch}.stay-intro .stay-note{font-size:13px;border-top:1px solid #6d8173;padding-top:28px;margin-top:50px}.stay-list article{padding:0 0 32px;margin:0 0 30px;border-bottom:1px solid #6d8173}.stay-list article:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.stays .location{color:#c6d0c5}.stay-list h3{font-size:30px}.stay-list p{font-size:14px;color:#d6ded4;margin:19px 0}.stays details{border-color:#6d8173;margin-bottom:10px}.stays details p{color:#d6ded4}.stays a{font-size:13px}.stays a:hover{color:#e5b696}.stays :focus-visible{outline-color:#e5b696}.journeys{padding:95px 7% 80px}.route-controls{display:flex;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:0 0 40px}.route-controls button{background:transparent;color:var(--muted);border:0;border-bottom:3px solid transparent;padding:18px 28px;cursor:pointer;text-align:left;font-size:23px;font-family:var(--serif);min-height:85px;flex:1}.route-controls button span{display:block;font:13px var(--sans);padding-top:9px}.route-controls button[aria-pressed=true]{color:var(--clay);border-color:var(--clay);background:#eae3d6}.route-controls button:hover{background:#eee6d9}.route-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;gap:6%;align-items:center}.map-panel{background:#e9e5d8;padding:15px}.map-panel p{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);padding:0 15px;margin:0 0 10px}svg{width:100%;height:auto}.mountain-band{fill:#d2d6c3}.map-region{font:15px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;fill:#56634c}#route-line{fill:none;stroke:var(--clay);stroke-width:2.5;stroke-dasharray:6 7}.map-stop circle{fill:var(--clay);stroke:var(--paper);stroke-width:3}.map-stop text{font:16px var(--sans);fill:var(--ink)}.map-orientation{font:15px var(--sans);fill:var(--muted)}.map-stop.inactive{opacity:.28}#route-content h3{font-size:30px;margin-bottom:18px}#route-content>p{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}#route-content ol{list-style:none;margin:25px 0;padding:0}#route-content li{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:13px 0}#route-content strong{font-weight:500;font-size:15px}#route-content li span{display:block;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:4px}.route-caveat{font-size:12px!important}.practical{padding:70px 7% 80px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:.82fr 1.3fr;gap:10%;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.practical h2{font-size:40px}.practical summary{padding-top:20px;padding-bottom:20px;font-size:16px}.practical summary:after{top:16px}.practical details{border-bottom:0}.closing{text-align:center;padding:65px 20px 85px;background:#e7d7c7}.closing>p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(45px,6vw,80px);line-height:1.2;margin:0 auto 24px}.closing>span{display:block;font-size:14px;margin-bottom:28px}.closing .text-link{margin:auto}footer{padding:45px 7%;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:10%;font-size:12px}footer p{margin-top:15px;color:var(--muted)}footer details{font-size:12px}footer .wordmark{font-size:22px}#photo-credits p{font-size:11px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}@keyframes opening{from{clip-path:inset(0 0 10% 0)}to{clip-path:inset(0)}}@media(min-width:1550px){body{max-width:1800px;margin:auto}.hero{min-height:760px}.hero-image{min-height:640px}}@media(max-width:1000px){.masthead{height:80px}.masthead nav{gap:18px}.edition{display:none}.hero{min-height:600px;grid-template-columns:45% 55%}.hero-image{min-height:500px}.hero h1{font-size:58px}.hero-copy>p{font-size:15px}.image-note{padding:18px}.image-note p{font-size:20px}.place{gap:6%}.place figure{height:530px}.stays,.practical{gap:6%}.section-heading>p{max-width:28ch}.route-layout{gap:4%}.map-stop text{font-size:17px}}@media(max-width:700px){html{scroll-padding-top:20px}.masthead{height:auto;min-height:100px;padding:18px 6%;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:16px}.wordmark{font-size:21px}.masthead nav{width:100%;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;font-size:11px}.hero{margin:0 6%;padding:30px 0 20px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;min-height:0}.hero-copy{padding:0}.hero h1{font-size:58px;margin-bottom:18px}.hero h1 br:first-child{display:none}.hero h1 em{font-size:.74em}.hero-copy>p{font-size:15px;margin-bottom:18px}.hero-foot{display:none}.hero .text-link{font-size:13px;margin-bottom:25px}.hero-image{width:100%;min-height:360px;margin-top:12px;margin-bottom:40px}.image-note{left:-8px;bottom:19px;padding:14px 19px}.image-note p{font-size:18px}.image-note>span{font-size:11px}.hero-image>figcaption{font-size:11px}.intro{margin:30px 6% 65px;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:10px;padding-top:28px}.intro-lead{font-size:28px;margin-bottom:15px}.intro>div{font-size:15px}.section-heading{display:block;margin-bottom:30px}.section-heading>p{max-width:none;margin-top:20px;font-size:13px}.places{padding:0 6%}.place,.place-mountain{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:30px;margin-bottom:65px;align-items:stretch}.place figure{height:400px;margin-bottom:0}.place-mountain figure{order:-1;height:340px}.place-oasis figure{height:340px}.place h3{font-size:36px}.place-copy>p{font-size:15px;margin:20px 0}.experience-list{margin:20px 0}.quiet{padding:50px 6%}.quiet-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}.quiet-grid article{padding-top:20px}.quiet-grid h3{font-size:28px}.stays{display:block;padding:55px 6%}.stay-intro{position:static}.stay-intro>p{max-width:none;font-size:15px}.stay-intro .stay-note{margin-top:25px;padding-top:22px;margin-bottom:40px}.stay-list h3{font-size:28px}.journeys{padding:55px 6%}.route-controls{margin-bottom:25px}.route-controls button{padding:13px 8px;font-size:20px}.route-controls button span{font-size:11px;line-height:1.5;min-height:35px}.route-layout{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:30px;align-items:stretch}.map-panel{padding:5px}.map-panel p{font-size:11px}.practical{display:block;padding:45px 6%}.practical h2{font-size:34px;margin-bottom:30px}.practical summary{font-size:15px}.closing{padding:50px 6% 60px}.closing>span{font-size:13px}footer{display:block;padding:35px 6%}footer>div+div{margin-top:35px}h2{font-size:36px}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.hero-image>img{animation:none}}@media print{.masthead nav,.route-controls,.image-note{display:none}body{font-size:11pt}.hero{min-height:0}.hero-image{min-height:300px}.stay-intro{position:static}details>*{display:block}section,article{break-inside:avoid}}

.location{margin-top:12px;margin-bottom:16px}
/* Review corrections: explicit icon geometry and a property photograph. */
.arrow-icon{display:inline-block;width:14px;height:14px;vertical-align:-2px;margin-left:4px;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.5;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}
summary:after{content:'';width:12px;height:2px;background:currentColor;top:25px;right:3px}
summary:before{content:'';position:absolute;width:2px;height:12px;background:currentColor;top:20px;right:8px}
details[open]>summary:after{content:''}details[open]>summary:before{display:none}
.practical summary:after{top:32px}.practical summary:before{top:27px}
.stay-photo{margin-bottom:35px}.stay-photo img{height:320px}.stay-photo figcaption{color:#c6d0c5;max-width:44ch;font-size:11px}.stay-photo figcaption a{font-size:11px}
@media(max-width:700px){.stay-photo img{height:300px}.stay-photo{margin-bottom:30px}.hero h1{font-size:55px}.hero h1 em{font-size:.77em}}
/* A photographic edit: imagery leads; longer reading is optional. */
.hero{grid-template-columns:35% 65%;padding-bottom:70px;min-height:700px}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(48px,5.3vw,76px)}.hero-image{min-height:600px}.hero-foot{display:none}.hero-copy{justify-content:center;padding-bottom:50px}.image-note{display:none}
.places{padding:30px 7% 0}.section-heading{margin-bottom:35px}.section-heading>p{max-width:34ch}.place,.place-mountain{display:block;margin-bottom:80px}.place figure,.place-mountain figure,.place-oasis figure{height:560px;margin-bottom:35px}.place-city img{object-position:50% 56%}.place-mountain img{object-position:50% 52%}.place-copy{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:10%;align-items:start}.place-copy>div>p{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted);margin:18px 0 0;max-width:38ch}.place h3{font-size:40px}.place-more .experience-list{margin:10px 0 25px}.place-more details>p{font-size:14px}.place-more summary{font-size:15px}.place-more{padding-top:8px}
.quiet{padding:65px 7%}.quiet-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:7%;align-items:start}.quiet-photo{position:sticky;top:30px}.quiet-photo img{height:570px}.quiet-grid{display:block}.quiet-grid article{padding-top:17px;margin-bottom:20px}.quiet-grid h3{font-size:25px}.quiet-grid p{font-size:14px;margin-bottom:8px}.quiet-grid .location{margin:7px 0}.quiet-grid details{margin-top:8px}.quiet-grid summary{font-size:13px;padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:10px}.quiet-grid summary:after{top:21px}.quiet-grid summary:before{top:16px}
.stays{display:block;padding:70px 7%}.stay-intro{position:static;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;column-gap:10%;align-items:center;margin-bottom:35px}.stay-intro h2{grid-row:1 / 3}.stay-intro>p{margin:0;max-width:36ch}.stay-timing{border-color:#6d8173;margin-top:15px;font-size:13px}.stay-timing p{color:#d6ded4}.stay-list{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:5%}.stay-list article{border:0;margin:0;padding:0}.stay-photo{margin-bottom:25px}.stay-photo img{height:360px}.stay-photo figcaption{font-size:11px;max-width:none}.stay-list h3{font-size:29px}.stay-list p{margin:12px 0;font-size:14px}.stay-list .location{margin:10px 0}.other-stays{margin-top:35px;border-color:#6d8173}.other-stays>div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:8%}.other-stays h3{font-size:26px}.other-stays .location,.other-stays p{color:#d6ded4}.other-stays article{padding:20px 0}
.journeys{padding-top:65px;padding-bottom:40px}#route-content>p:first-of-type{display:none}.practical{display:block;padding:20px 7% 45px;border-top:0}.practical-all>summary{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:30px;padding:24px 30px 24px 0}.practical-all>div{max-width:800px}.closing{padding:45px 20px}.closing>p{font-size:58px}
@media(max-width:1000px) and (min-width:701px){.hero{grid-template-columns:43% 57%}.hero h1{font-size:58px}.quiet-photo img{height:520px}.stay-photo img{height:290px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.hero{min-height:0;padding:28px 0 40px}.hero-copy{padding-bottom:0}.hero h1{font-size:55px;margin-bottom:15px}.hero-copy>p{display:none}.hero .text-link{margin-bottom:12px}.hero-image{min-height:420px;margin-top:10px;margin-bottom:15px}.places{padding:15px 6% 0}.section-heading h2{font-size:32px}.section-heading>p{margin-top:14px}.place{margin-bottom:50px}.place figure,.place-mountain figure,.place-oasis figure{height:360px;margin-bottom:30px}.place-copy{display:block}.place h3{font-size:32px}.place-copy>div>p{font-size:14px;max-width:none;margin:15px 0}.place-more{padding-top:5px}.quiet{padding:45px 6%}.quiet-layout{display:block}.quiet-photo{position:static;margin-bottom:35px}.quiet-photo img{height:340px}.quiet-grid article{margin-bottom:22px}.quiet-grid h3{font-size:25px}.stays{padding:45px 6%}.stay-intro{display:block;margin-bottom:30px}.stay-intro>p{margin-top:20px}.stay-list{display:block}.stay-list article+article{margin-top:40px}.stay-photo img{height:330px}.stay-list h3{font-size:28px}.other-stays>div{display:block}.journeys{padding:45px 6% 30px}.practical{padding:10px 6% 30px}.practical-all>summary{font-size:28px}.closing>p{font-size:45px}}